7. As Executive Chef, you oversee both the Michelin-starred Black Swan and the more relaxed Abbey Inn. How do you approach creating two very different dining experiences while maintaining the same commitment to quality?
I genuinely believe I have one of the best jobs in the world. I have the privilege of expressing my passion for highly refined, hyper-local cuisine at the Black Swan, where the carefully controlled environment allows us to explore the very highest levels of creativity and precision. With every guest experiencing a set tasting menu, we are able to push the refinement of our food and create a truly immersive dining experience.
I have a deep appreciation for the tradition and character of a great British pub, and I love creating dishes that celebrate that sense of familiarity, generosity, and enjoyment.
At the Abbey Inn, I have the opportunity to take a more relaxed approach, focusing on exceptional, flavour-driven food in a welcoming gastro pub setting. Having grown up around pubs, I have a deep appreciation for the tradition and character of a great British pub, and I love creating dishes that celebrate that sense of familiarity, generosity, and enjoyment.
8. Sustainability has become a major focus across fine dining. Beyond sourcing local ingredients, what does sustainability mean in your kitchen on a day-to-day basis?
On a day-to-day basis, sustainability means ensuring that every ingredient is valued and utilised to its fullest potential. We embrace traditional preservation techniques such as fermentation, pickling, drying, and freezing to extend the life of seasonal produce, reduce waste, and continue celebrating the character and flavour of our ingredients long after their peak harvest.
9. You’ve worked alongside Tommy Banks for several years. What’s the biggest lesson you’ve learned from him—not just about cooking, but about building and leading a restaurant?
One of the most valuable lessons I have learned from him is the importance of remaining calm and composed, even in the most challenging situations. The way Tommy conducts himself is truly admirable, and his professionalism, leadership, and ability to maintain high standards under pressure are qualities I greatly respect.
10. Your Great British Menu dish “Priestley’s Carbon Cycle” showed how science and storytelling can become part of a dining experience. How important is storytelling in you’re cooking today, and how do you ensure it enhances rather than overshadows the food itself?
Storytelling is a fundamental part of what we do at the Black Swan. Taking part in Great British Menu gave me the opportunity to further develop the narrative and philosophy that now underpin the restaurant’s identity.
I believe that great storytelling must always be supported by genuine substance. The story behind a dish should be rooted in the ingredients, the landscape, the producers, and the people who bring it to life. This authenticity is something we take great pride in at the Black Swan, ensuring that every dish has both meaning and purpose behind it.
11. As Executive Chef, mentoring the next generation is an important part of your role. What qualities do you value most in young chefs joining your kitchen?
We have been running an apprenticeship programme here in Oldstead for the past five years, and I have had the privilege of working closely with many talented young individuals as they begin their careers in hospitality.
The most important quality we look for is attitude.
The most important quality we look for is attitude. Technical skills and knowledge can be developed over time, but passion, commitment, and a genuine desire to learn are invaluable. Cooking can be taught, but care, dedication, and pride in what you do have to come from within.
12. Many home cooks admire the precision of restaurant cooking but assume it’s impossible to replicate. What’s one technique or habit that anyone can adopt to immediately improve their cooking at home?
I believe the most important aspect of home cooking is allowing yourself enough time and taking the opportunity to plan. Thinking carefully about what you want to cook, preparing a list of ingredients, and organising your approach can make a significant difference to the overall experience.
As professional chefs, we rely on detailed prep lists every day to help structure our work, improve efficiency, and ensure everything comes together at the right time. Bringing that same level of organisation into home cooking can make the process more enjoyable and help you achieve the best possible results.
13. Finally, what’s next for you and The Black Swan? Are there any new projects, ideas, or culinary directions you’re particularly excited about?
Things are constantly evolving, and we are always exploring new ideas and exciting opportunities. There are several projects currently in development that we are incredibly passionate about, although unfortunately there is nothing I can share publicly at this stage.
We are looking forward to revealing more in due course as these ideas continue to take shape.
Chef Callum Leslie | Instagram
The Black Swan at Oldstead
Oldstead, York YO61 4BL, United Kingdom
