Marking the 13th edition of the prestigious food congress, a few days ago the Identità Golose 2017^[1] - an event sponsored by S.Pellegrino^[2] and Acqua Panna^[3] - gathered in Milan more than 100 famous chefs from all over the world for three gourmet days of speeches, lessons and cooking shows.

From Massimo Bottura to Umberto Bombana, Carlo Cracco, Davide Scabin, Rodolfo Guzman, Angel Leon and Heinz Beck, many acclaimed chefs pushed the culinary boundaries of creativity and innovation whilst championing this year's theme: The Power of Freedom: The Journey.

Not to forget this year's event, here's a selection of 22 amazing dishes prepared by some of the chefs on stage: enjoy this mouthwatering gallery!

References

1. ^{^} Identità Golose 2017 (www.finedininglovers.com)
2. ^{^} S.Pellegrino (www.finedininglovers.com)
3. ^{^} Acqua Panna (www.finedininglovers.com)

Ocheesee Creamery is a little creamery in Florida. It caters to people who want all-natural products without additives. So far so good, until a federal judge ruled this year that because Ocheesee doesn't add vitamin A to its milk, Florida may prohibit the creamery from labeling its skim milk as "skim milk”.

An inspector ordered to stop selling the milk before, in the words of Baylen J. Linnekin, because of what it didn't contain—mandatory additives. Ocheesee's skimmed milk was just too natural. Linnekin is an adjunct professor at George Mason University and describes this case in his book Biting the Hands that Feed Us, that came out last September.

This example is just one of many based on bizarre laws on food and drinking that don’t add anything to food safety, but do create an abundance of food waste. In the US, the patchwork of state laws on labeling, that have nothing in common, except for the lack of a scientific basis, is another example.

Milk Expiration Day

The Harvard Food Law and Policy Clinic^[1], co-produced a short documentary, called Not Really Expired^[2], that portrays the waste of enormous amounts of milk in Montana. The state law demands a “sell-by” date of 12 days after pasteurisation, although according to Harvard scientists in most states milk is dated up to 21 or even 28 days after pasteurisation.

After 12 days, milk cannot be sold and stores have to throw it away and aren’t allowed to donate it either. And to make it worse, they cannot recycle the cartons but have to put the full cartons in the dumpsters.

Feeding Pigs

In the EU, using food waste as pig feed has been banned, following 2001’s foot-and-mouth disease epidemic. However, with technologies that have been used for years in East Asia, food waste can be safely turned into pig feed, which would save around 1.8 million hectares, an area of about half the size of Germany. An example is the ‘heat treatment’ of food waste, either by direct fire or through steam injection.

With direct fire, food waste is heated with flames, while steam injection involves injecting steam into the bottom of a load of food waste so that it is evenly heated as steam percolates through the food waste. But despite the available techniques, the ban continues, though other initiatives are used to try to fight the enormous waste of food, running as high as 40% of all food produced in the US and Europe.

Supermarket food waste

In France, legislation was passed in February 2016 that makes France the world's first country to ban supermarket waste^[3] and compel large retailers to donate unsold food – or face a huge fine. Italy followed in August^[4], easing the donation of food by farmers, restaurants and others.

Though the laws were greeted with much enthusiasm, FDL spoke with Selina Juul, founder of the Stop Wasting Food movement, who points out that the problem is only pushed further on down the value chain and the root cause – the overproduction of food – is not addressed.

Alcoholic drinks

Alcoholic drinks give rise to an enormous diversity of laws. Among the strictest countries is Sweden, with a state owned monopoly of liquor stores for drinks with more than 3,5% of alcohol, called the Systembolaget. Ironically, a new ice cream, N1CE Cocktail, containing 5% alcohol, can be freely sold as the alcohol is not in liquid form.

The mirror-image of Sweden is Russia, which only defined beer as an alcoholic beverage in 2011, while as of 2017, the size of a plastic bottle will be limited to no more than 1,5 litres, a size not regularly found anywhere else.

Finally, Bernd van der Meulen, professor of food law at Wageningen University, has another problem with the way alcohol is marketed, as he explained to FDL: "A provision that causes me headache is the prohibition to say on the label that a food can cure a disease. This prohibition also applies in situations where the curative property is supported by solid scientific evidence. In the same line it is forbidden to make any statement that an alcoholic beverage has any positive health properties."

References

1. ^{^} Harvard Food Law and Policy Clinic (hls.harvard.edu)
2. ^{^} Not Really Expired (notreallyexpired.com)
3. ^{^} world's first country to ban supermarket waste (www.finedininglovers.com)
4. ^{^} Italy followed in August (www.finedininglovers.com)

While the Bocuse d’Or 2017^[1] sponsored by S.Pellegrino will be remembered for chef Mathew Peters and Team USA’s historic win^[2], the first in the country’s history, let us not forget all the incredible food on display from the 23 other competing countries.

In the gallery above you’ll see not only the USA’s winning dishes (Chicken stuffed with morel sausage, foie gras and crawfish and California green asparagus with toasted almond custard and lemon confit), but also the meat platters of every other team, based around the concept of ‘chicken and crayfish,’ a traditional dish in Lyon^[3] and one that was served at the very first Bocuse d’Or back in 1987.

You can read more about all the action from the Bocuse d’Or here^[4], and for more food porn from this year’s Sirha trade show, the setting for the competition, take a look at 16 beautiful desserts from the Coupe du Monde de la Pâtisserie^[5], the World Cup of Pastry.

Let the countdown begin for Bocuse d'Or 2019.

References

1. ^{^} Bocuse d’Or 2017 (www.finedininglovers.com)
2. ^{^} Mathew Peters and Team USA’s historic win (www.finedininglovers.com)
3. ^{^} Lyon (www.finedininglovers.com)
4. ^{^} all the action from the Bocuse d’Or here (www.finedininglovers.com)
5. ^{^} 16 beautiful desserts from the Coupe du Monde de la Pâtisserie (www.finedininglovers.com)

Since it’s reemergence as a holiday hot spot, Colombia and particularly Bogotá has begun to make a name for itself in the culinary world.

It may not be the fine dining destination that Lima or Buenos Aires are just yet, but with such a wide variety of both traditional and international food on offer and an ever expanding palate for mixing new and old flavours, the future is looking tasty.

Hot Chocolate & Cheese at La Puerta Falsa

La Puerta Falsa is the go to place for traditional Colombian food. Officially the oldest^[1] and one of the most famous restaurants in Bogotá, you'd expect it to have grown since it was first established, but true to its roots it’s still the same small hole-in-the-wall eatery it was when it first opened its doors in 1816.

Their two most famous servings are the classic Bogotanian breakfast of hot chocolate and cheese (drop the cheese in the chocolate for the true experience) and their highly rated tamales (with their secret 100-year-old family recipe), but they also do a mean ajiaco soup.

It does tend to be busy most of the day so you might have to wait a little while for a seat, but for a quick bite whilst sightseeing through the Candelaria (the historic colonial quarter) it's a sure bet. For a slightly more relaxed option check out La Puerta de la Catedral 2 doors down.

La Puerta Falsa
Cl. 11 #6-50, Bogotá

La Puerta de la Catedral
Cl. 11 #6-26, Bogotá

Lechona at La Planchoneria

There’s an entire district in Bogotá (Zona L) dedicated to this classic dish of roasted pork, rice, peas, onions and spices, traditionally served directly out of the pig’s belly with thick pieces of fat and crispy crackling. And its from here that the mother (who is also the chef) of one of the young entrepreneurs of La Planchoneria hails from.

La Planchoneria is Bogota’s first gourmet street vendor of Lechona (minus the pig’s belly) and they are quickly gaining a reputation for their fast, fresh and tasty servings. As they move around you need to check the website^[2] to find out where they will be on any given day, but if they happen to be somewhere local they are well worth a visit.

The pork is succulent, the crackling crunchy, and the fatty yellow rice and peas are melt in the mouth. Served up with a corn arepa, just like mother used to make it. (Fried egg on top optional).

La Planchoneria
Various locations, Bogotà
Website^[3]

Market Juices at Paloquemao

Colombia is known as a mega-diverse country and is home to a huge array of edible plants, vegetables and fruits. A great place to sample a few of these and get a feel for real Colombia culture is the bustling Paloquemao market.

Nestled in amongst the Oca roots, gourd wind-chimes and medicinal herbs and flowers you will find some of the best juice stalls in the city serving some unusual, yet refreshing exotic delights, such as lulo, guanábana, arbol de tomate, mamoncillo, corozo and many more (mixed with either water or milk).

Paloquemao Market
Plaza De Mercado De Paloquemao
Cl. 19 #22, Bogotá

Sancocho at Club Colombia

Sancocho is the ultimate Colombian classic, and possibly the most famous of the many Colombian soups (though ajiaco lovers might disagree).

It is known not only for it’s diverse range of flavours and recipes, but also for it’s importance in Colombian family culture. Ask any Colombian and they will tell you sancocho holds a special place in their hearts (and that their mother makes it the best). Each region has it’s own sancocho with distinct flavours and variations depending on the local environment.

Club Colombia (under the purview of Harry Sasson) offers a different regional variation of the dish every day, such as Sancocho de Costilla del Altiplano (A local beef rib soup), Sancocho de pollo de valle (Country Chicken) and my personal favourite; Sancocho del Pescado (from the Caribbean coast), with tender white fish, creamy coconut milk, yuca, yam and a pinch of coriander. Served with a side of Avocado and white rice.

Club Colombia
Cl. 82 # 9-11, Bogotá

Real Ale at the Bogotá Beer Company (BBC)

Not usually one to recommend chains in this case I find it fair to make an exception. The Bogotá Beer Company is Colombia’s first ever real ale brewery.

They still call themselves a micro-brewery, but what started from humble beginnings after founding beer maker Berny Silberwasser returned from a trip visiting American and European breweries in 2002 has grown into one of the most recognised beer brands in Colombia, earning them a string of awards for their finely crafted ales and lagers. And rightly so.

Set in the style of a traditional British pub it’s one of the only places you can find a real pint of beer in Colombia. So take a moment off from your busy sightseeing tour, pull up a stool at the bar and sample a cool glass of one of their award winning ales.

Bogotá Beer Company
Various locations across Bogotá

Nibbles and Evening Cocktails at W Lounge, W Hotel

No city tasting tour is truly complete without the obligatory evening cocktail. A moment to sit back and reflect on the day’s epicurean excursion. Located on the third floor of the W hotel the W Lounge fuses the modern with the classic.

Trendy graffiti-painted walls play counterpart to 1920s style drapery and plush lavender and gold upholstery. This is where is where the cool kids hang, blending high-end sophisticated cocktails and European style fine dining with the hippest dance DJs.

Designed by world renowned chef Jean-George Vongerichten, the restaurant and lounge menu boast his "greatest hits," – chic creations such as crispy sushi and chipotle mayonnaise (pairs excellently with their ginger margarita) and their classic shore rib with apple sauce (fall apart tender), whilst their signature lulo mojito is the perfect balance of sweet and citrus. A cool twilight taste to savour, as the sun sets on Colombia’s first city.

W hotel
Cra. 9 #11530, Bogotá

References

1. ^{^} Officially the oldest (www.eltiempo.com)
2. ^{^} check the website (laplanchoneria.com)
3. ^{^} Website (laplanchoneria.com)

Aura. This is Finnish blue cheese made with cow's milk, not artisanal but of excellent quality, and typically served on rye crackers.

Bleu d' Auvergne. This cheese comes from the major town in the Massif Central in southern France, and is one of the world's best known marbled cheeses. It's less sharp than most of the others, with mold that ranges from blue-green to blue-black.

Curd. Marbling, once left to chance, today is controlled by adding select milk spores, generally before the curd forms, or after, blending them together.

Danablu. This is the modern Danish blue, a semi-hard cheese. Copper wires or rods are used to pierce the formed curds to distribute the mold evenly through the cheese.

European Union. In the European Union, many of the more traditional and well-known marbled cheeses are protected by controlled designation of origin.

Fourme d'Ambert. A French PDO originating in the Roman era. Also from the Auvergne region, it is made with raw cow's milk and has a characteristic narrow cylinder shape.

Gorgonzola. The Italian PDO cheese made with whole cow's milk and Penicillium glacum mold. It was created in the city of the same name in the province of Milan, and is one of the oldest marbled cheeses.

Historian. The great Roman historian Pliny (23-79 A.D.) described a marbled cheese from a mountainous region of Mediterranean France that may have been Roquefort.

Inox. The needling tools are generally stainless steel or brass now. In the past, they were worked wood or bone.

Joke. “What do you call a cheese that is sad?” “A blue cheese?”

King Charles VI. King Charles VI of France, also known as The Beloved and The Mad King, was a great lover of the cheese produced in the village of Roquefort-sur-Soulzon. In 1411 he recognized the designation of origin for the cheese, and made the caves in which it was aged a protected place. At the time, the Roquefort forms became an exchange currency.

Liébana. This is the Cantabrian valley in Spain where Picón Bejes Trasvisos is made. It's a blue that was originally sold wrapped in maple leaves, but today gilded aluminum is used.

Mold. The dairy processing technique that causes the blue-green-gray streaks and patches is based on the development of these molds - multi-cellular fungi - in the cheese.

Needling. Maturing cheese is perforated with long needles to provide entry to the air that "feeds" the molds, helping them proliferate and form the bluish veins.

Odor. Sometimes the characteristic odor of marbled cheese is a true stink. It's caused by the cultivated molds or bacteria that develop in them. In particular, the bacteria Brevibacterium linens, which is often generally identified as "the smell of stinky feet", or of other parts of the body.

Penicillium. It's the type of fungus that develops in marbled cheeses, in particular, P. roqueforti and P. glaucum, present in nature but now sold commercially with lyophilized cultures. The name sounds like 'penicillin' because it's actually related to the mold that gave rise to antibiotics.

Queso de Cabrales. This is a blue cheese typical of the Asturias, in Spain. Protected since 1981 and made only in rural settings, it has nearly no rind and is incredibly creamy. The sharp flavor and strong odor are the result of adding sheep's and goat's milk to the cow's milk.

Roquefort. The marbled cheese made with sheep's cheese originating from the south of France. Legend has it that it was discovered when a young shepherd, bewitched by the sight of a beautiful girl, abandoned his meal of bread and sheep's curd in the cave. Returning some time later, the mold (Penicillium roqueforti) had transformed it into Roquefort...

Stilton. The most famous version of this English cheese is the "blue". It is classically accompanied by celery, pears and Port wine, or Barleywine, a highly fermented British beer of Greek origin. Temperature. Marbled cheeses are normally aged in temperature-controlled environments, like caves.

UK. If Stilton is the best known, other blue British cheeses are also worthy of mention. Stichelton, dense and creamy, made with unpasteurized cow's milk; Beenleight Blue, unpasteurized sheep's milk, available only in autumn and winter; and Dorset Blue Vinny, cow's milk and vegetarian rennet, from a 300-year-old recipe.

Valdéon. This marbled cheese is made in the heart of the Picos de Europa, the mountain chain running along the northern coast of Spain. Made with cow's and/or goat's milk, the cheese is yellowish and its flavor isn't especially strong. It is wrapped in its characteristic aluminum foil, which helps preserve it and maintain its humidity, as is the case for most marbled cheeses.

Wine. Very smooth, robust red wines with an appreciable alcohol content, or sweet and liqueur-like raisin wines. Or even a botrytised wine. All good recommends for pairing with complex blue cheeses. For example: Sauternes with Roquefort, and Passito di Pantelleria or Marsala Superiore with Gorgonzola. Clearly, these are intended when the cheese is served alone at the end of the meal.

Xxx. A few adventurous chocolate makers and chefs have recently put forward a wild, and apparently delicious, combination: bitter chocolate and marbled cheese. A perfect pairing for a bold snack.

Yellow-reddish. This is the color that artificial marbling produces in the cheese rind, which normally also becomes rough and irregular

Zola. This is the popular nickname for Gorgonzola. With 4 million units produced every year, it's one of the world's best loved blue cheeses.